Rioja - Red
Usually considered one of the most straightforward of wine styles, Rioja seems to be becoming one of the most complicated. There are huge variations in expression right across the region. Crianzas that taste like reservas, reservas that taste like crianzas, wines without classification that can have a lot or zero oak. It makes it tricky for our tasters – and for your customers.
The only category that is reasonably predictable, it seems, is gran reserva, though even here – as our two Golds proved, there were different schools of thought. The Bodegas Corral, however, was one for purists – and made for a stimulating red winner of our By The Glass Award.
If we had to generalise, on the evidence of this year’s competition, it seems that price, as much as anything, might be the big issue here now. You can still get a decent crianza and an expressive, balanced reserva but nowadays they will probably cost you around £10 and £14 respectively.
Rioja might not be overpriced. But it’s not exactly a bargain anymore either – and with such variations on offer you should check the tasting notes online from these winners to pick your style with care.
From The Tasting Teams
‘There were some really nice examples of crianza, but there were also some oak-dominated wines. I wanted to see more fruit character and a bit less oak.’ Laura Rhys MS, team leader
‘The reservas split into two categories: one more fruit forward, bright with acidity and lighter, then a second style with a tertiary, earthy, tobacco, funky edge. This gives a somm the ability to pick out tiers of styles at every price range.’ Tim Handley, Royal Automobile Club
‘The lower end of the reservas offered incredible value for money. It’s an established region, they know what they’re doing and they follow a formula. I don’t see it changing. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!’ Gary Newborough, The Aristologist
‘The reservas mostly showed expressions of vanilla and American oak. We didn’t see so much of the coconutty, more modern style. It was great to see some really good value at £9-£10.’ Nigel Lister, St. Swithins Wine Shippers
‘Rioja reserva is a very important category here in the UK. There’s a good quality of winemaking going on there, and these were consistent with my past experiences as well.’ Tim Smith, Winesurfer Consulting
‘The [Don Jacobo Gran Reserva] was the best wine I’ve tried today.’ Olivier Gasselin, OenoTrade
‘I found a lot of oak influence for too many of the crianzas. They were too spicy and sweet.’ Tanguy Martin, Blandford Comptoir
‘Gran reserva Rioja is one of the best value-for-money fine wines in the world.’ Raphael Thierry, consultant
‘Customers are not always sure which style they’ll get when they buy a bottle of Rioja, so they need a somm to tell them what they should expect.’ Rémi Cousin, Le Gavroche