English sparkling wine and the trend setters
In March 2016, then secretary of state for environment, food & rural affairs Elizabeth Truss announced to the press that the country’s sparkling wine industry would endeavour to increase its export volumes from 250,000 to 2.5 million bottles by 2020. Unfortunately, this ambitious goal remains unmet: UK wine exports (still and sparkling) totalled approximately 700,000 bottles in 2023. Meanwhile, English producers – now facing a 10% tariff imposed by the current US administration – are understandably concerned. Several major firms had signed lucrative deals with American importers, including Chapel Down, Gusbourne and Hush Heath in Kent, and Camel Valley in Cornwall.
Yet the domestic market remains strong. According to Wine GB, 28% of English wine sales come from the hospitality sector, the second-largest channel after the national off-trade (30%). Thanks to significant investment in promotions and advocacy from leading sommeliers, top brands now have a foothold alongside Grande Marque Champagne, often matching – or exceeding – the average price of a NV label. If there is one standout triumph among UK sparkling producers, it is their success in capturing the attention of the on-trade and winning over its most influential stakeholders.
“The number of English sparkling wines on our list has grown steadily over the past few years,” says Nikolas Emner, head sommelier at Coworth Park, Ascot. “We’ve expanded our selection to include more library releases as well. Currently, we feature wines from eight wineries across Kent, Sussex, Surrey, and Oxfordshire, with multiple cuvées from each.
“There is no doubt that the quality of English sparkling wine has improved significantly, and we’ve seen some fantastic age-worthy examples. Our guests increasingly appreciate and recognise its potential.”
Stuart Bond, sommelier at the Cavendish Hotel Baslow, believes that “English sparkling wines can knock some Champagnes out of the park in terms of quality and value, with Nyetimber and Chapel Down at the forefront of this revolution”. The UK's burgeoning wine industry certainly has strong allies in its corner.
Champagne versus the rest
However, this is about more than patriotic fervour. English sparkling has stolen a march with a diverse cross-section of hospitality businesses – everything from gastropubs to Asian restaurants. According to a recent report by Wine Lister, the fine wine consulting agency, English wine now "competes with Champagne in quality perception". A growing ethos on buying local has also proven a powerful force, galvanising consumers and boosting sales of premium wines even amid economic uncertainty. All of this benefits homegrown fizz.
“I currently have three English sparkling labels on my list - when the restaurant opened three years ago there was only one,” says Ryosuke Mashio, sommelier at Marylebone's Roketsu. The venue's bestselling bubbles are Black Chalk Paragon and Inversion – two prestige cuvées released in small volumes.
“Guests want to try to discover something new: this makes them choose Black Chalk over Champagne Blanc de Blancs or vintage expressions, for example. Moreover, thanks to the fabulous quality on offer, guests are never disappointed.”
Back at Coworth Park, Nikolas Emner emphasises that “English wineries often support restaurants with better pricing structures, which helps us offer competitive value”. And, while some of his guests may gravitate towards a familiar Champagne marque, “a well-curated list and thoughtful recommendations” are persuading diners to explore top English brands.
Historically, there been some resistance to paying Champagne-level prices for traditional method alternatives – regardless of origin. Maurizio Zanella, former president of the Franciacorta promotional body, once observed: “There does seem to be a culture of ‘Champagne and then everything else’ on London wine lists. When an entry-level Champagne is priced at £30 then the nearest non-Champagne must be generally a minimum of £5 less.”
But thanks to the hard work of sommeliers nationwide, this outdated mindset is beginning to shift. Modern consumers aren't just trading up (or down) – they're trading across from one prestigious label to another. “English sparkling wines have entered the market in a dynamic way and rather than seeing it as a direct competitor to Champagne, most guests view it as an excellent alternative – offering something unique rather than replacing Champagne entirely,” observes Emner.
Nor is this phenomenon limited to UK residents. Many sommeliers report a strong uptake from international guests, particularly those exploring English sparkling wines by the glass.
“Their curiosity is often driven by the growing global reputation of these wines,” he adds.
Glass ceilings
English wineries have broken through more than one glass ceiling in the 21st century, investing heavily in consumer/trade education, while balancing innovation with commercial sense. Yet there are professionals working in the UK who recognise that Champagne's cachet is a hard act to follow, despite growing competition worldwide.
According to Emma Denney, head sommelier at Claridge’s Restaurant: “Many guests still think of English sparkling as a lesser product, and it can be a challenge to sell alternatives [to Champagne], especially when consumers have so much trust in a product that they have known about and potentially been drinking for many years.”
For this reason, Denney insists on having “one English sparkling on by the glass at all times so that we can give them a taste and hopefully change their perspective”.
She adds: “Among the sommelier team, we would definitely consider the English sparklings that we list to be as good and, in some cases, even better than some Champagne. However, Champagne very much still dominates sales of prestigious sparkling at the restaurant.”
Nevertheless, the pace with which the English wine industry has established itself as one of the world's leading sources of premium sparkling wine is nothing short of remarkable. What started as a brave venture by Felsted and Philton Manor in 1976 has morphed into a vibrant, growing industry, with over 4,000ha of vineyards planted and a rash of new investment. A far cry from the general consensus 30 years ago, when homegrown bubbly was derided as “tasting of rain”. Today, leading brands are gaining traction in top-tier establishments, notwithstanding scepticism from some consumers.
Meanwhile, the 2.5 million target set by Truss does seem a long way off. Rome wasn't built in a day, and neither will a sizeable export presence be – Champagne has a major headstart over its smaller competitor. But in the UK’s dynamic hospitality sector, unwavering support from sommeliers has become key to English wine's future growth and success.
“Having a sommelier team in a restaurant who really care about and love English sparkling wine comes in very handy,” enthuses Denney. “It is our job to explain why a bottle of English sparkling is worth the same amount as a well-known Champagne.”