Q&A: Clara Rubin, head of wine, Hawksmoor

There are few London-based sommeliers more passionate, talented and downright charming than Hawksmoor's head of wine. A qualified WSET educator and globe-trotting international judge, Clara Rubin has spent the past decade amassing a wealth of knowledge about all things grape related. Yet it could have all turned out so very differently; Rubin had dreams of being a documentary researcher, navigating the “wilds of social anthropology” before (accidentally) discovering a passion for wine. James Lawrence gets the lowdown.

Tell us more about your formative years.

I was born in Westminster, London, and raised in Surrey with two sisters and our dad. We weren’t exactly angels – always falling out of trees, crashing bikes, or breaking teeth.

Is there any other career path that really tempted you before you made the leap into wine?

I wanted to be a documentary researcher, but the universe had other ideas for me. My journey to wine wended its way through the wilds of social anthropology first. I graduated during the recession (2008); businesses were closing everywhere, graduates were lucky to get an unpaid internship somewhere, in any industry. Like for so many people, a transient job in wine and hospitality became a lifelong love affair.

You're one of London's top sommeliers. What are the essential ingredients in a world-class list?

Well, that’s hugely kind of you to say – thank you! World-class wine lists should first represent the world. It’s got to work financially, be accessible at all levels and reflect your values. I approach procurement from a philosophy of passion, noble intention and positive action. Do the work. Don’t be lazy. Go the extra mile.

As Christmas approaches, what strategies/promotions do you have in place to maximise revenue from wine sales in December 2024?

I’m sure I’m not alone in saying this, but I am so tired of the doom and gloom. To counteract it, we’ve brought on over 300 new wines across all our UK lists, with more than 30 of those available by the glass (all hail Coravin). This way, we make those great wines accessible even if you want just a taste of something special.

Other than Hawksmoor, where are your favourite places to enjoy great wine in London?

I keep a Google map of places I like so when people ask me for recommendations, I don’t have to play concierge and cater a whole night out for them. For classics: Noble Rot (Lamb’s Conduit), Quality Wines, or 10 Cases. Off-piste: Oranj, Lower, Half-Cut Market, and Binch. Saying that, I’ll never say no to a glass of fino (or two) at Bar Daskal, then I can just roll into a plate of gambas rojas at the bar at Barrafina.

Who are your heroes in wine?

Any winemaker still making a profit in this climate! What a hero.

Tell us about your best-value drop on the list at Hawksmoor today.

Our new champagne by the glass across all restaurants: Veuve Fourny ‘Grands Terroirs’ Premier Cru Brut NV for £17 per 125ml. 80% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir – 80% of the fruit comes from Premier Cru plots and the remaining 20% comes from Grand Cru. 40% of reserve wines stored in old oak for three+ years. 6g/l dosage. I’m thrilled to say we’re working with them. It’s an honour to pour it. Massive yet graceful – the ballet-dancing hippo from Fantasia.

Seminal food and wine pairing?

You’ve heard of Ikea hacks? We have Hawksmoor menu hacks too. Mine is our grilled monkfish slathered with a side of grilled bone marrow and a glass of Chateau Moulin-à-Vent 2020 (£17 for a 175ml).

Old World or New World?

Isn’t the whole point to never have to decide? Living in London means unparalleled access to the world’s greatest wines. No other city in the world lists as greedily as we do, grabbing wines from all over the globe.
There is a constant global conversation between winemakers across the world. Whether you want tradition or innovation, drinking in London is like sitting on the net of that beautiful tennis match.

Finally – what will you be drinking on Christmas Day and New Year’s Eve?

Christmas Day

Christmas is an excuse to get all 20 of us together on or near the day itself. It’s usually a big, loud, shouty affair at my half-brother’s place with four generations and three dogs. I’m usually relegated to the corner of the kitchen, decanting things one after the other, while bottles of fizz fly around.

New Year’s Eve

I did last NYE completely sober, and I had a blast. I like to wake up bright-eyed on the 1st of January. But on the 1st of Jan, there’s a lunch a close friend of mine throws, and I’ve stashed away a magnum of Côte de Brouilly ‘Les Sept Vignes’ from Château Thivin 2014 just for that.