Q&A: Dario Barbato, head of wine & wine buyer, San Carlo Group
In an industry full of prodigious talent, Dario Barbato stands out from the crowd. Born in Lazio, the intrepid Italian has worked in bartending, cruise ship hospitality, and as a restaurant manager in the Bermuda Triangle. Today, Barbato lends his considerable expertise to the San Carlo restaurant group, combining his skills as a wine buyer with his natural talent for education; one of his key roles is to oversee the learning and development programmes of around 800 employees. After a busy service, the oenophile cum pedagogue sits down with James Lawrence to debate wine bibles, buying strategies, and the ongoing rivalry between Franciacorta and Champagne.
Where did you grow up?
I was born and raised in Ceprano, a small city 60km south of Rome, nestled in the heart of Ciociaria.
When did the wine bug start to bite?
I initially started as a passionate bartender, attending seminars and bar competitions. One day, I noticed some individuals in black uniforms, bowties, and chains on their collars. A friend informed me that they were sommeliers – experts in wine. Inspired by them, I embarked on my journey to become one of them in 1994. It feels like an era ago.
You're one of the UK's most successful restaurant wine buyers. Tell us more about your career journey.
My career began as a bartender, working for 10 years in seasonal resorts – skiing in Madonna di Campiglio and seaside in Porto Cervo, Italy. My passion for wines flourished during this time. Driven by curiosity and a desire to enhance my CV, I joined Cunard as a bartender on the QE2. After more than a year, I returned to Italy to manage renowned nightclubs like Villa delle Rose, Paradiso and Peter Pan. I successfully completed the three Italian sommelier courses during this period.
My professional experience equipped me with trading skills as a buyer, which I still utilise today. My best mentor was my mum who, during my childhood, taught me how to deal with merchants to get the best price. After 12 intense years in Riccione, I ventured abroad to manage a sushi-tapas bar in Bermuda, owned by Mandarin Oriental. Upon contract expiry, I moved to London, working as a bar manager/sommelier. After two years I moved to Manchester where I am based proudly as wine buyer for San Carlo Group. My first encounter with the English market revealed that my wine knowledge needed improvement; I delved deeply into WSET courses, achieving the Diploma in 2021 and the Certificate WSET Educator in 2022. I started the MW journey in 2024.
Why did you decide to become a SWA judge?
Becoming an SWA judge presents an excellent opportunity for networking and information sharing with wine professional, Master of Wines, Master Sommeliers, colleagues, essential for professional growth. SWA is well organised and gives the opportunity to taste wines blind. This enhances one's ability to evaluate wine without bias, focusing solely on its quality and characteristics.
How has your buying strategy evolved in the post-pandemic environment, considering the challenges that hospitality continues to face?
In the post-pandemic environment, my buying strategy has evolved to prioritise flexibility and resilience. I have diversified our supply chain to mitigate disruptions, embraced digital solutions for efficiency, and focused on sustainable and local sourcing to support community resilience. Additionally, I plan to adapt to changing consumer preferences by enhancing our online offer with premium wine selections at home, presented by a sommelier – me!
I also oversee wine training in all 25 restaurants of the group (Signor Sassi, San Carlo, Cicchetti, Fumo, Alto, Isola), in addition to preparing for our next international opening in Miami.
What do you feel are the key ingredients in a great wine list?
The market has evolved significantly in recent years. I believe a great wine list should feature a wide selection of wines by the glass, including sparkling, red, rosé and white. The pricing should be affordable for everyday guests, with a good selection of premium wines for more affluent customers.
What are your feelings about 'wine bibles' – large tomes with hundreds of different references? Outdated anachronism, or is there still a demand for these massive wine lists?
While 'wine bibles' may seem like an outdated anachronism in the digital age, there remains a demand for them among wine enthusiasts and connoisseurs who appreciate their depth and expertise. These comprehensive references offer valuable insights, historical context and detailed information, enhanced by presentations from talented sommeliers. However, there is a growing preference for more curated and accessible wine lists, where simplicity and functionality are highly valued.
Some sommeliers I've spoken to argue that shorter, more concise lists are more accessible and user-friendly for consumers – do you agree?
Yes, I agree. Shorter, more concise wine lists can be more accessible and user-friendly, especially for consumers who may feel overwhelmed by extensive options. A well-curated selection highlights key wines, making it easier for diners to choose and for staff to provide knowledgeable recommendations. It strikes a balance between offering variety and maintaining simplicity, ultimately enhancing the overall dining experience.
Do you have a particular passion for certain grapes or regions?
No, I love discovering all regions and countries and their associated grape varieties. I have no specific preference.
Champagne, Franciacorta or English sparkling?
I should say Franciacorta, but I can't lie – I love Champagne.
Favourite tipple apart from wine?
Please do not be disappointed. I love Diet Coke.
What do you do to relax outside of work?
Running helps me clear my mind and find new solutions to my everyday issues.